Where to Eat in Khiva: 6 Restaurants for Khorezmian Food and Views

Khiva's cooking is different from the rest of Uzbekistan. Khorezm is famous for shivit oshi, bright green dill noodles with a meat stew, tukhum barak, dumplings filled with egg, and gumma, fried pies. Most of the places below are inside the walls of Itchan Kala, so you are never more than a few minutes from your table.

Prices are a rough guide: $ is a simple local meal, $$ a sit-down dinner at tourist-friendly prices, $$$ one of the more expensive places in town. Most places take cards, but carry some cash, especially in teahouses and plov centres.

1. Terrassa

Probably the best-known restaurant in the old town, loved above all for its rooftop and balcony views over Itchan Kala and the Kalta Minor minaret at sunset. Try the "Eight Tastes" set to sample the Khorezmian dishes (shivit oshi, tukhum barak, gumma, dumplings and shashlik) in one go. Book ahead: it fills up. Price: $$. Official website · Open in Google Maps

2. Arxi Terrasa

A multi-level restaurant inside Itchan Kala with a top terrace over the walls and a whole page of local dishes on the menu, plus musicians in the evening. Ask for a table on the top terrace and order shivit oshi, lamb shashlik or plov. Price: $$. Open in Google Maps

3. Zarafshon

Dinner in a 19th-century madrasah: Zarafshon fills the Tolib Makhsum Madrasah opposite the Islam Khodja complex, with suzani on the walls and carved furniture, and tables outside in summer. A good choice for vegetarians too, with pumpkin soup and dimlama alongside shivit oshi and plov. Price: $$. Open in Google Maps

4. Sultan

A clean, welcoming and air-conditioned restaurant on Islom Khoja Street, near the woodcarving workshops, well liked for its classic Uzbek and Khorezmian cooking. Try the tukhum barak and mustava soup. Price: $$. Open in Google Maps

5. Mirza Boshi Tea House

A family-run teahouse inside the walls where you can do more than eat: it runs an hour-long class in making shivit oshi, in English and Russian. Otherwise drop in for pumpkin samsa, soups and tea. Price: $$. Open in Google Maps

6. Khiva Moon

A family-run restaurant just outside the West Gate with a courtyard and patio, popular for its local feel. Order shivit oshi, Khiva-style plov or grilled fish. Price: $$. Open in Google Maps

Opening hours and prices change, so check before you set off. Our Khiva city tour walks you through Itchan Kala, and your guide will help you choose where to have lunch.